Theodore Roosevelt National Park: South Unit vs. North Unit

Have you ever looked at a place and felt like you stepped back in time? That’s what Theodore Roosevelt National Park is like. It’s a land of colorful canyons and wild animals, where a famous president once found peace. 

But here’s the cool part: the park is split into two parts, the South Unit and the North Unit, and they’re totally different! One is easy to visit and has amazing views. The other is wilder, with bigger animals and fewer people. So, which one should you see? Don’t worry, we’re going to explore both sides of this amazing park and help you figure out which adventure is right for you. Get ready to discover the secrets of the Badlands!

Theodore Roosevelt National Park:
South Unit vs. North Unit

South Unit

One Day Itinerary

North Unit

One Day Itinerary

Travel Tips

for either unit…

South Unit vs. North Unit: Which One Should You Visit?

  • Accessibility: South is more accessible, North is more remote.
  • Crowds: South is generally more crowded, North is less so.
  • Scenery: South offers wider, more sweeping vistas, while the North offers deeper canyons and more rugged landscapes.
  • Wildlife: North often has larger herds and more variety.
  • Hiking: South has easier hiking, North has more strenuous hiking.
  • Overall “feel”: South is more tourist friendly, North is more wild and secluded.

Theodore Roosevelt South Unit Itinerary 

201 E River Rd, Medora, ND 58645

In the battle of South Unit vs. North Unit, South will win for those seeking highly accessible views.

The South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park offers a readily accessible and captivating Badlands experience. Its paved scenic loop drive winds through stunning landscapes, providing numerous overlooks like Painted Canyon, where visitors can gaze upon sweeping vistas. Popular hiking trails, such as the Wind Canyon Trail, offer opportunities for closer exploration of the unique formations.

Wildlife viewing is a highlight of the South Unit, with frequent sightings of bison, prairie dogs, and wild horses along the scenic drive. Visitors can also delve into the park’s history by visiting Theodore Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin, preserved near the South Unit Visitor Center. This visitor center itself provides valuable information, exhibits, and ranger assistance, making it a crucial starting point for any visit to this portion of the park.

Morning

Start counter clockwise on the 36-mile scenic loop drive this is the fastest way to your first few trails of the day and a great sunrise opportunity. If you’re not in a rush to get to Buck Hill for sunrise, check out Prairie Dog Metropolis and Skyline Vista on your way out…

Buck Hill

0.4 miles & 55 feet

The Buck Hill Trail in the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park is a short but rewarding hike that offers panoramic views of the surrounding Badlands.

Parking for the trailhead is conveniently located at the Buck Hill Overlook, making it easily accessible for visitors already enjoying the popular overlook. The trail begins at the circle and ascends Buck Hill, providing a quick elevation gain that leads to stunning vistas.

The trail itself is relatively short, approximately 0.4 miles round trip, but it does involve a moderately steep climb. The elevation gain is around 55 feet, which, while not extreme, can be challenging for some.

Due to its short length and moderate difficulty, it’s generally considered a good option for most hikers, including families, though those with mobility concerns should be aware of the incline.

Hikers on the Buck Hill Trail can look forward to breathtaking 360-degree views of the Painted Canyon and the surrounding Badlands landscape. The high vantage point offers a unique perspective of the colorful rock formations and the vastness of the park.

Keep an eye out for wildlife, as prairie dogs and birds are frequently seen in the area. The trail’s short length makes it perfect for a quick hike (especially for sunrise), allowing visitors to maximize their time exploring other attractions in the South Unit.

Coal Vein Trail

0.8 miles & 26 feet

The Coal Vein Nature Trail in Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s North Unit offers a unique glimpse into the geological forces that shaped the Badlands.

This short, self-guided loop trail explores an exposed coal vein, a remnant of ancient swamps that once covered the area. Parking for the trail is located at a designated trailhead pull-off along the North Unit’s scenic drive, clearly marked with signage.

The Coal Vein Nature Trail is a relatively easy 0.8-mile loop with minimal elevation gain, making it accessible to most visitors.

The trail’s gentle slopes and well-defined path make it suitable for families and those seeking a leisurely stroll. While it’s a short hike, it provides a fascinating look at the park’s geological history.

Visitors on the Coal Vein Nature Trail can look forward to observing the exposed coal vein, a dark layer embedded in the lighter-colored sedimentary rock. Interpretive signs along the trail explain the formation of the coal and the surrounding Badlands landscape.

The trail also offers opportunities to spot wildlife, such as prairie dogs and various bird species, and enjoy panoramic views of the Little Missouri River valley. The charred remains of burned coal veins are also a feature of this trail, providing a look at natural fires that shaped the landscape.

Be aware of where you’re putting your feet and hands on Buck Hill! While we were up there, we were lucky enough to see a prairie rattlesnake hiding beneath a rock. These snakes are poisonous so it doesn’t make sense to provoke it; enjoy it from a distance!

Afternoon

We’re spending the afternoon heading clockwise on Scenic Loop Drive so we can end with an epic sunset at a ranger-favorite! As your driving this loop, don’t hesitate to stop at some of the amazing overlooks. They make for a great lunch spot!

Peaceful Valley Ranch

Peaceful Valley Ranch, nestled within the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, stands as a tangible link to the park’s vibrant ranching and early tourism roots.

The Peaceful Valley Ranch area is like a time capsule inside Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s South Unit. It shows you what life was like in the old days of ranching and early tourism.

You can see old buildings, like the main ranch house and a big log barn, that tell stories about cowboys and early tourists. It’s a place where you can imagine what it was like to live in the Wild West.

The ranch started a long time ago, in the late 1800s. The Olsen family turned it into a “dude ranch,” which was like a vacation spot for people who wanted to experience the cowboy life. Carl Olsen, from the family, even helped make the national park happen.

In 1936, the National Park Service bought the ranch and used it as their headquarters. The ranch has had many lives, from a working ranch, to a tourist attraction, and then a park headquarters.

Now, when you visit, you can walk around the old buildings and learn about the ranch’s history. Even though you can’t ride horses there anymore, it’s still a great place to take pictures and explore.

It’s a quiet place where you can think about how the land changed from a wild frontier to a protected park. And wild horses often hang out around this area for you to see!

Boicourt Overlook Trail

0.8 miles & 55 feet

The Boicourt Overlook Trail is a short, easy hike in the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. It takes you to a spot with a really cool view of the Badlands.

Think of it like a quick trip to a balcony where you can see a lot of the park’s wild land. It’s a good way to get a feel for the area without having to hike for a long time.

This trail is only about a half-mile long, so it’s pretty quick. There’s not much uphill or downhill, so it’s not hard at all. It’s a good choice if you want to take it easy and still see some amazing scenery.

You can walk it at a relaxed pace and enjoy the views without getting too tired. It is an out and back trail, so you will go the same way back that you came.

When you walk the Boicourt Overlook Trail, you’ll see deep canyons and interesting rock shapes. The overlook itself gives you a wide view of the Little Missouri River valley.

You might also see wildlife like bison or prairie dogs in the valley along the way. The trail is a nice place to take pictures and just enjoy being outside in nature.

This would be our choice for sunset as the ridgeline really just puts you out there for all the sunset beauty!

Another great trail you’ll pass on this drive is the The Wind Canyon Trail. It is a short, fun hike that takes you right into a narrow canyon where the wind whistles through the rocks. You’ll get to climb some steps and see cool rock formations up close, and the view from the top is awesome!

When all is said and done, finish up your loop in whatever way makes the most sense. If you have time, check out the Maltese Cabin, Roosevelt’s Temporary home, on your way out. Enjoy the rest of your evening in the town of Medora where you can grab a bite to eat, visit the Cowboy Hall of Fame, and check out the local shops.

Theodore Roosevelt North Unit Itinerary

208 Scenic Dr, Watford City, ND 58854

In the battle of South Unit vs. North Unit, North will win for those seeking more rugged terrain.

The North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park offers a more rugged and secluded experience. Its scenic drive, less developed than the South Unit’s, leads to breathtaking overlooks like Oxbow, where the Little Missouri River carves dramatic canyons. Hiking trails, such as the Caprock Coulee Trail, challenge visitors with steeper climbs and more isolated paths, offering a deeper immersion into the wilderness.

Wildlife thrives in the North Unit’s remote setting, with larger herds of bison, elk, and bighorn sheep frequently spotted. The Badlands formations here differ notably from the South Unit, featuring deeper, narrower canyons and more dramatic, layered rock structures. While the North Unit does not house Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin, the raw, untamed landscape itself serves as a powerful reminder of his connection to the area’s wild beauty, and the visitor center provides information specific to the unique geology and wildlife of the North.

Morning

We’re going to do something crazy here and enter the park early in the morning, in the dark! Drive the road all the way down to Oxbow overlook and hike to the east-facing Sperati Point for sunrise. 

Caprock Coulee Nature Trail

4.4 miles & 383 feet

The Caprock Coulee Nature Trail in the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park offers a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in the Badlands’ unique environment.

This trail is a section of the larger Caprock Coulee Trail, and it provides a closer look at the diverse natural and geological features of the area. To access the trail, you’ll find the trailhead and parking area along the North Unit’s scenic drive.

The Caprock Coulee Trail, including its nature trail portion, presents a moderate hiking challenge. The full loop is roughly 4 miles long, with an elevation gain of approximately 583 feet. This means hikers should be prepared for some uphill sections and varying terrain.

The nature trail portion of the trail is a shorter section of that larger loop, and provides a more easy to moderate hike. Because of the elevation change, it is considered a moderate hike. It is important to remember to bring water, and proper footwear.

On the Caprock Coulee Nature Trail, hikers can look forward to a diverse range of sights and experiences. The trail winds through areas showcasing the Badlands’ geological variety, including layered rock formations and evidence of erosion. You’ll also encounter diverse plant life, from prairie grasses to juniper stands, and have opportunities to spot wildlife like bison and other native animals.

The trail also provides great views of the Little Missouri river valley. The interpretive pamphlets available at the trailhead enhance the experience, providing insights into the area’s natural and geological history.

Incredible Scenic Overlooks

The North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park is renowned for its dramatic landscapes, and its overlooks provide some truly spectacular views. Here are a couple of the best:

Oxbow Overlook:

Located at the end of the North Unit’s scenic drive, this overlook offers a panoramic view of the Little Missouri River’s distinctive oxbow bend.

The sweeping vista showcases the rugged beauty of the Badlands, with its deep canyons and layered rock formations.

It’s a fantastic spot for both sunrise and sunset photography.

River Bend Overlook:

This overlook provides a breathtaking, wide-angle view of the Little Missouri River valley.

It’s known for its stunning sunset views, with the colors of the Badlands intensifying as the sun dips below the horizon.

It is located along the 14 mile scenic drive.

These overlooks, along with the scenic drive itself, offer visitors ample opportunities to appreciate the North Unit’s wild and untamed beauty.

Feel free to pull over on your drive to take in the scenery or any wildlife you might see, but please do so from a distance. Remember these are wild animals; if your proximity causes an animal to change its behavior, you are too close.

Afternoon

Eat lunch at the Juniper Picnic area to escape the heat. Enjoy the shade of the pavilion and surrounding Juniper, Cottonwood, and Box Elder Trees before continuing on with your adventure!

Buckhorn Trail

10.8 miles & 1,033 feet

The Buckhorn Trail in the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park is a longer hike that lets you really explore the Badlands.

It’s like taking a walk through a wild, rocky world with lots of cool things to see. This trail is a good way to see a lot of different landscapes and maybe even spot some wildlife.

The Buckhorn Trail is about 11.8 miles long, so you’ll need a few hours to hike it. It has some ups and downs, but it’s not super steep.

It’s considered moderate to difficult, meaning you’ll need to be ready for a longer walk and some hills. It’s best to be prepared with good hiking shoes and plenty of water.

On the Buckhorn Trail, you can look forward to seeing amazing views of the Little Missouri River and the Badlands. You’ll walk through different kinds of landscapes, from grassy areas to rocky canyons.

Keep an eye out for wildlife like bison, elk, and maybe even bighorn sheep. Because this trail is longer, it’s less crowded, so you might feel like you have the Badlands all to yourself.

CCC Campground

This is going to sound a little crazy, but leave the park and drive about 5 minutes south to the CCC Campground entrance.

From here, you can witness and incredible sunset and maybe even cook dinner under the pavilion.

It’s pretty incredible to watch the sun go down behind the colorful North Dakota Badlands. Even better, you’ll probably be enjoying it solo from this viewpoint!

If you arrive early and have time to space, check out the Maah Daah Hey Trail on foot or by bike.

The Maah Daah Hey Trail is a legendary, 140-mile singletrack trail that winds through the rugged North Dakota Badlands. It includes sections within Theodore Roosevelt National Park and offers an unparalleled wilderness experience for hikers, bikers, and horseback riders, showcasing the area’s stunning landscapes and diverse wildlife.

This trail is known for its challenging terrain and remote beauty, providing a true adventure for those seeking to explore the heart of the American West.

The North Unit is a truly wild gem of an area. No trip to Theodore Roosevelt National Park is complete without a taste of this true adventure. ≥

Recommendations: Which Unit is Right for You?

Theodore Roosevelt South Unit vs. North Unit, which one do we recommend for you?

  • For visitors with limited time, we recommend the South Unit for its accessibility and iconic views. It’s located right off the highway and includes a lot of shorter hikes and overlooks on its loop road.
  • For hikers and those seeking solitude, we recommend the North Unit for its rugged trails and fewer crowds.
  • For wildlife enthusiasts, we truly recommend both, but emphasize the North Unit for larger herds. There is, however, plenty of watchable wildlife
  • For those wanting to experience both, we recommend allotting three days. Head North first since that park is more remote. Enjoy a full day and morning in the North Unit before making you way back down to the South. Then take a day and a half to really see everything the South Unit has to offer.
  • For those with accessibility needs, we definitely recommend the south unit as there are more overlook options, shorter trails, and close proximity to a town.
  • For those who travel with mountain bikes, we recommend you check out the Maah Daah Hey Trail. Accessible from the CCC campground to the North and just outside of the South Entrance, you can ride this beautiful backcountry trail!

In all this talk about South Unit vs. North Unit, it can be easy to forget there’s more to the Badlands! Don’t forget about the South Dakota Badlands! Plan your trip to Badlands National Park with our help and enjoy everything the Badlands has to offer.

6 Practical Tips for Visiting Both Units

Regardless of which unit you decide to visit, these tips should help you plan your trip!

1. When is the best time to visit?

Theodore Roosevelt National Park offers unique experiences throughout the year, but some seasons are generally considered more ideal than others. Here’s a breakdown:

  • Fall:
    • Many consider fall the best time to visit.
    • The weather is typically mild, with comfortable temperatures for hiking and exploring.
    • The fall foliage adds a beautiful array of colors to the Badlands landscape.
    • Crowds tend to be thinner compared to the peak summer season.
  • Spring:
    • Spring can also be a great time to visit, especially later in the season.
    • Temperatures are warming up, and wildflowers begin to bloom.
    • You might also have the chance to see newborn wildlife, such as baby bison.
  • Summer:
    • Summer is the most popular time to visit, with warm temperatures and long daylight hours.
    • However, it can also be hot, and crowds can be larger.
    • If you visit in summer, be prepared for potentially high temperatures and plan your activities accordingly.
  • Winter:
    • Winter in Theodore Roosevelt National Park can be very cold, with snow and ice.
    • However, it offers a unique and serene experience for those who enjoy winter activities like snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.
    • The park’s landscapes take on a beautiful, quiet appearance in the snow.
    • It is also a great time to see wildlife.

In summary, fall and spring offer the most pleasant weather and fewer crowds, while summer is ideal for those who prefer warmer temperatures. Winter provides a unique and tranquil experience for those who embrace the cold.

2. Where should I stay when visiting Theodore Roosevelt National Park?

When planning a trip to Theodore Roosevelt National Park, your lodging options will largely depend on which unit(s) you intend to visit, and your personal preferences. Here’s a breakdown of common options:

Theodore Roosevelt South Unit:

  • Town of Medora
    • This charming town is located right at the doorstep of the South Unit, making it an incredibly convenient base.
    • You’ll find a variety of hotels, motels, cabins, and vacation rentals.
    • The Rough Riders Hotel is a historic option with a classic Western feel.
    • Medora also has the Medora Campground, with a variety of camping options.
  • Camping
    • Camp inside the park at Cottonwood Campground right along the river
    • Boondock (which means free and dispersed camping) at an area located off of route 730A in the Little Missouri National Grassland

Theodore Roosevelt North Unit:

  • Watford City
    • This town is a good option for those visiting the North Unit.
    • You’ll find several hotels and motels here.
    • It’s a bit further from the park than Medora, but it provides essential amenities.
  • Dickinson
    • Dickinson is a larger city located a bit further from both units, but it offers a wider selection of hotels and services.
    • It’s a good option if you want more amenities or if you’re planning to explore other attractions in the area.
  • Camping
    • Camp inside the park at the Juniper Campground
    • Camp outside the park, just down the road, at the CCC Campground

3. What should I pack for a trip to Theodore Roosevelt?

What you pack for a trip to Theodore Roosevelt National Park really depends on what season you’re traveling in. If you’re visiting in late Spring through early Fall, we recommend:

On Your Body:

  • Long Sleeve Shirt (sun protection)
  • Hiking Pants/Shorts
  • Insulated Vest
  • Hiking Socks
  • Brimmed Hat & Sunglasses
  • Beanie & Gloves
  • Hiking Boots
  • Comfortable Shoes

In Your Backpack:

  • Water Bottles
  • Sunscreen:
  • Insect Repellent:
  • First-Aid Kit
  • Map and Compass/Offline Maps
  • Snacks
  • Binoculars
  • Camera

4. How can I stay safe when visiting?

Visiting Theodore Roosevelt National Park can be an incredible experience, but it’s essential to prioritize safety. Here’s a breakdown of key safety considerations:

Wildlife Awareness

  • Respect Wild Animals:
    • All animals in the park are wild and unpredictable. Maintain a safe distance, especially from bison and wild horses.  
    • Never approach or feed any wildlife.
  • Be Aware of Potential Hazards:
    • Rattlesnakes are present, so watch your step and avoid putting hands or feet in places you can’t see (like definitely wear boots for extra sturdy protection).  
    • Prairie dog burrows can also harbor rattlesnakes and black widow spiders.  

Hiking Safety

  • Stay on Marked Trails:
    • Stick to established trails to avoid getting lost and to protect the fragile environment.
    • Be cautious on steep slopes, as they can be slippery, especially when wet.  
  • Be Prepared:
    • Carry plenty of water, especially during hot weather.  
    • Bring a map, compass, or GPS, and know how to use them.
    • Inform someone of your hiking plans.
    • Have a first aid kit.
  • Weather Precautions:
    • North Dakota weather can change rapidly. Check the forecast before you go, and be prepared for sudden storms, especially during summer.  

General Safety

  • Driving Safety:
    • Drive cautiously on park roads, as wildlife may cross unexpectedly.  
    • Use extra caution at night, Bison blend in with bushes and rocks in the dark!
  • Hydration and Sun Protection:
    • The climate is dry, so drink plenty of water.  
    • Use sunscreen, wear a hat, and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun.
  • Leave No Trace:
    • Help protect the park by packing out everything you pack in.

By following these safety tips, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable visit to Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

5. How far are the units away from each other?

The South and North Unit are over an hour away from one another and exist in different time zones. The South Unit operates on Mountain Time while the North Unit operates on Central Standard Time which makes for an hour difference between the two parks.

The Elkhorn Ranch Unit is the most remote area of the park. It is located an hour northwest of the South Unit and an hour and fifty minutes from the North Unit. It is the least visited unit; the cabin no longer stands, with only foundation stones remaining, however, it is known as one of the most peaceful parts of Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

6. What does it cost to enter the park?

There are a handful of different pass options available.

  • Standard Vehicle Pass:
    • A standard vehicle pass costs $30.00.  
    • This pass is valid for 7 days and covers all occupants of a single, private, non-commercial vehicle.  
  • Motorcycle Pass:
    • A motorcycle pass costs $25.00.  
    • This is also valid for 7 days.
  • Individual Pass:
    • If you enter by foot, bicycle, or other non-motorized means, the fee is $15.00 per person.  
  • Theodore Roosevelt National Park Annual Pass:
    • An annual pass for Theodore Roosevelt National Park is $55.00.  
    • This pass is valid for one year from the month of purchase.  
  • America the Beautiful—the National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass:
    • This annual pass costs $80.00.
    • It grants access to all national parks and federal recreation lands.  
    • This is a great option if you plan on visiting multiple national parks within a year.

It is also important to remember that there are also free entrance days throughout the year.

To get the most up to date information, it is always best to check the National park service website

Conclusion

Whether you pick the South Unit with its easy drives and big views, or the wilder North Unit with its deep canyons and bigger animal herds, you’re in for an amazing time. Both parts of Theodore Roosevelt National Park show off the cool, rugged beauty of the Badlands in different ways.

No matter which side you choose, you’ll get to see incredible landscapes and maybe even spot some wild animals. Just remember to be safe and have fun exploring this special place where history and nature meet.

2 thoughts on “Theodore Roosevelt National Park: South Unit vs. North Unit”

Leave a Reply

Scroll to Top

Discover more from Wander With KT

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading